Dominio de Pingus

Spain's Iconic Cult Wine

Pingus stands out as one of Spain’s most iconic cult wines, and for good reason. It was Spain’s first “garagiste” wine and quickly became the country’s most expensive. Bottles are priced at approximately €1,500. Peter Sisseck, a Danish winemaker, created Pingus after moving to Ribera del Duero in the 1980s.

Sisseck relocated to Castilla-León to work as technical director at Hacienda Monasterio. While working there, he decided to create his own wine and began searching for the perfect vines. He discovered the Barroso vineyard in La Horra, Burgos. This vineyard is renowned for its old vines and exceptional soil quality. Over time, Sisseck added neighboring vineyards with similar features. Today, Pingus produces just 7,500 bottles each year, sourced from 4.5 hectares of vines.

Connections in Bordeaux helped Sisseck build Pingus’s reputation. Jean-Claude Thunevin, a négociant and garage wine pioneer, introduced Pingus to critic Robert Parker. Parker awarded Pingus’s 1995 vintage an impressive 95 points. At the time, this was the highest score ever given to a Spanish wine. Adding to its mystique, a shipwreck transporting the first Pingus bottles to the U.S. drove prices even higher.

Pingus: The Icon

Dominio de Pingus has grown significantly since its humble beginnings. The original garage in Quintanilla de Onésimo has transformed into a modern winery equipped with advanced lab facilities.

Peter Sisseck produces fewer than 500 cases of Pingus each year. This tiny production comes from three parcels of ancient, head-pruned Tempranillo vines. His expertise shines in the vineyard, where he has carefully restored the gnarled old vines. The trunks have been straightened and lowered, and pruning has reduced them to just 1-2 buds per stump. These efforts yield remarkably low harvests, ranging from 20 hl/ha to as little as 9 hl/ha.

Initially, Pingus aged exclusively in “200% new oak,” creating a bold and robust style. Over time, Sisseck shifted to using more used barrels. This change has refined the wine’s character, making it more elegant and subtle while moving away from its earlier bold style.

Flor de Pingus: A distinguished Second Wine

The second wine, Flor de Pingus, is also highly regarded. It retails for €150, with over 100,000 bottles produced annually. Initially sourced from Finca Villacreces, it has used La Horra grapes since the 2004 vintage. Although it was once crafted to appeal to the U.S. market, Flor de Pingus now mirrors its older sibling. It maintains a similar character while retaining freshness and a fruit-forward profile.

Psi: An Ambitious Third Wine

Sisseck’s third wine, Psi, showcases innovation and community. This project works with local growers to preserve and cultivate old vines. Priced at €44, Psi produces around 350,000 bottles yearly. The wine uses minimal oak, favoring cement tanks and large aging vats. Garnacha, which makes up 10% of the blend, is playing an increasingly important role in Psi’s flavor profile.

A Legacy of Excellence

Pingus, Flor de Pingus, and Psi embody Sisseck’s commitment to quality and innovation. These wines continue to shape the legacy of Dominio de Pingus as one of Spain’s most celebrated wineries.

"Tinto Fino is important," he explains. "A lot of cuttings of Tempranillo have come in from Rioja, so not all vineyards in Ribera del Duero are Tinto Fino. There is a difference. All the vines in my plots are very old. They have never been fertilised nor treated with pesticides and all grow following the traditional en vaso system. They are perfect."